The Cut Of Meat Anthony Bourdain Thought Deserved More Recognition

When most Americans get excited for a prime cut of meat, their minds conjure up visions of perfectly marbled ribeyes, an iconic porterhouse, or a delicate filet mignon. It is perfectly understandable, as these steaks are often some of the most sought-after cuts in the world. However, when he wasn't enjoying a meal from his favorite restaurant in Paris, Anthony Bourdain was occasionally trying to convey to his fellow Americans that rump steak was far too underrated.

In the United States, rump steak is commonly referred to as "butt steak" or "round steak." For most, it doesn't conjure up the thought of a gourmet meal. Yet in France, this meat from the hindquarter of the cow is renowned by some as one of the best steaks money can buy. It starts with the heart of the rump, known as the coeur de romsteck. The heart transforms into filet de romsteck when a butcher slices away the fat and connective tissue until they end up with a cylindrical piece of meat about a foot long — similar in appearance to a tenderloin roast.

The filet de romsteck can be cooked and enjoyed as is, but some butchers go one step further by carving it into individual pieces dubbed pavé. To Bourdain, this was the equivalent of a budget filet mignon. He was enamored by how a butcher could find such a quality piece of meat hiding in plain sight, and as a chef, it was on him to make that beef shine.

Bourdain was, on his best-behaved days, a contrarian. While sipping on his favorite cocktail (the negroni), he often scoffed at what many chefs consider common knowledge — like what it means to have a quality cut of meat. Still, when it came to cooking pavé, Bourdain liked to keep things traditional.

Start by getting an oiled pan piping hot. Dredge the meat in cracked peppercorns, and let it sizzle in the pan until it has reached your preferred temperature. If you have a particularly thick cut, throw it in the oven to finish. It is crucial to follow one of the cooking tips Bourdain swore by and let the meat rest a few minutes after it has completed cooking so the tasty juices within don't run onto your cutting board as soon as you slice into the steak.

If you want to go the extra mile, deglaze the pan with some brandy after removing any excess oil. Reduce the brandy while adding demi-glace, pepper, and sea salt. After the mixture has reduced further, add some butter to create a velvety sauce that then gets poured over the meat. Bourdain recommended serving the dish with frites and a humble salad, but if you truly want to take a page from his book, go your own way and pair pavé with whatever makes your mouth water.