Why Christmas Dinner Phased Out Roasted Goose For Turkey

From the saintly reason we leave out cookies at Christmas to the murky history behind candy canes, December 25 is rife with customs that originated many years before us. One tradition many are aware of — but few have participated in — is roasting a goose for the holiday festivities. The long-lost ritual of cooking a goose for Christmas dinner was once considered a matter of practicality, and the practice was phased out for the same reason.

In England of yesteryear, folks who lived in the countryside often raised chickens, geese, and the occasional cow as a means of feeding their families. Milk from cows was prized, as were the eggs chickens laid year-round. Geese were valuable for their eggs as well, but they only lay them seasonally. When it came time to choose an animal to eat for a Yuletide feast, geese were the first choice, because other livestock would continue to provide sustenance for the family during the winter.

As time passed, the size of families grew and a goose became a paltry amount of food for a celebration as important as Christmas. Turkeys, on the other hand, were bigger and cheaper to care for. They also grew up fast; a bird born in spring became large enough to feast on by year's end. By the 19th century, turkeys reigned supreme as the protein of choice for Christmas merrymaking. Still, a roasted goose has its merit. It might be worth considering a return to the old-fashioned tradition of a roasted goose.

While it is more labor-intensive to prepare than cooking a Butterball, a goose consists solely of succulent dark meat that will turn heads on the big day. After some dedicated trimming, you can utilize Alton Brown's method of bucket-brining a turkey to prepare the goose. Once it has had its salty bath, pat it dry and puncture the skin all over so the fat has somewhere to go as it cooks. Place the poultry in a roasting rack, like this Circulon variety, breast side down. Cook it in the oven at 375 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes. Flip the bird over, roast for an additional 20 minutes, then turn the oven down to 325 degrees and finish it for 20 minutes per pound.

As it cooks, you will notice juicy fat escaping through the skin. That is a delicacy you should filter and save. Professional chefs pay good money to roast potatoes and other veggies in this highly sought-after goose fat, so it would be a waste to toss it in the trash.

Finding a goose to prepare for a Yuletide celebration isn't as challenging as some might think. Whole Foods has been known to put goose on sale during the holidays, and some other supermarkets will order one for you. If all else fails, contact a butcher in your area. They should be able to set you up with a Christmas goose if you order it far enough in advance.