Turtle Soup Was Once Considered An American Delicacy

Many people today may be surprised to know that turtle soup was once considered a delicacy in America. Presidents as far back as George Washington relished the soup, and several founding fathers were so fond of the dish that they formed a group known as the Hoboken Turtle Club.  Washington wasn't the only president who was a fan of savory, comforting turtle soup, either. Abraham Lincoln had turtle soup served at his second inauguration in 1865, and President Taft considered it the be one of his favorite meals. What was the appeal of this soup, and when did it fall out of favor?

At the time, turtles were often captured from islands in the Caribbean and brought to the shores of North America, where they were auctioned off to tavern owners and chefs. Some weighed as much as 300 pounds. Soup made from these turtles' meat was often sold pre-made to cooks working in wealthy households, as crafting it at home was difficult. Since the turtles were alive when they were purchased, a cook had to know the unique specifics of how to slaughter and dress them before their meat went into the pot.

Reports say turtle meat tastes like a cross between veal and lobster – an unlikely combination. The soup's other ingredients varied. Some had beef or beef broth added, while others included veal. Thyme, as well as other herbs and spices – sometimes including cayenne pepper – were stirred in, along with onions, celery, and other vegetables.

Most turtle soup was made from sea turtles, but terrapins, a smaller species of turtle, were also commonly used. So many terrapins were eaten at the height of turtle soup's popularity that the species was almost driven to extinction. That is, until one U.S. law went into effect and saved the terrapins.

Turtle soup was traditionally eaten with a layer of sherry on top of each serving. During Prohibition (from 1920 to 1933), alcoholic sherry was very hard to find in the U.S. and proved to be expensive when you could source it. So, the demand for turtle soup diminished and terrapins were no longer the rage. Today, wildlife officials struggle to keep the terrapin population intact as they are still prized for food.

If you want to try turtle soup for yourself, it may be difficult. These days, most of the restaurants that still serve it are in the South, specifically in New Orleans. What's more, many turtles, including the terrapin, remain endangered, meaning the task of ethically sourcing turtle meat can be very difficult. Instead, a beef-based mock turtle soup is your best bet, both ethically and practically.