Anthony Bourdain's Unique Method For Velvety Mashed Potatoes
The warm, satisfying embrace of buttery mashed potatoes is a welcome accompaniment to any meaty fare, but achieving the right texture isn't as easy as it sounds. There are a few schools of thought regarding how to make the creamiest mashed potatoes around, but who better to emulate than a chef who expertly upgraded straightforward cuisine for a career — Anthony Bourdain.
Bourdain's take on mashed potatoes is inspired by famed chef Joël Robuchon. Before Robuchon, spuds were rarely seen on a fine dining menu. By taking the time to fold ingredients into the dish slowly and with purpose, he transformed the culinary landscape into a potato-receptive environment. Bourdain took a page out of Robuchon's book when creating his rendition of this humble side.
Some assume the key to making a smooth, creamy portion of mashed potatoes is running the starch through a food mill or ricer. While this is crucial, the real path to velvety tubers demands time and attention.
The peeled taters simmer at a low temperature before going through a ricer to achieve the correct texture. The butter gets stirred in slowly while the chef takes note of how each addition affects the overall dish. If you don't get it right the first time, don't worry, as one of Bourdain's best cooking tips is that practice and repetition make perfect. Time and patience are essential tools needed for creating a luxurious mash, and Anthony Bourdain's version of mashed potatoes utilizes both in spades.
Slow and low wins the race
Anthony Bourdain's mashed potatoes aren't necessarily complex, but they do require a refined touch. Not starting with the right spud is one of the biggest mistakes preventing you from cooking perfect mashed potatoes. Where Robuchon opted for La Ratte potatoes, Bourdain chose something a bit more familiar to the American palate: Yukon Golds. The starchy tubers boil for 15 to 20 minutes before they're drained and cooled for a few more minutes. Then, they go through a ricer to eliminate any lumpiness before returning to medium heat.
When Bourdain made mashed potatoes, he did so using a generous amount of butter. However, he didn't just dump it in and give it a stir. In his recipe, the cold, cubed pieces of butter are slowly folded in while the riced spuds continue to cook. You add more only when you can see the fat has been fully incorporated. Because they are composed of less starch than some of their cousins, Yukon Golds can withstand the ample amount of stirring required to slowly mix the ingredients without congealing into a gluey mess.
Once the butter is assimilated, heavy cream and salt complete the dish. The mash should have a perfectly smooth texture that can hold the form of a swirl at the top. If you're looking for something extra, you could always season the dish with something like French onion for Thanksgiving mashed potatoes. But if you want to make them like Bourdain, simplicity is essential.