How Water Ice Became Such A Phenomenon In Philadelphia

Hawaii has its shave ice, and New Orleans has the sno-ball. In Philadelphia, the frozen treat of choice is known as water ice. Or is it wooder ice? We'll get to that, but first, let's discuss exactly what water ice is and where it originated. Philadelphia's connection to the icy delight goes way back. Like just about all varieties of shaved ice desserts, the story begins in ancient Italy. Sicily in the 20th century B.C.E., to be exact. Back then, citizens of means would send couriers to collect snow and ice from atop Mt. Etna. To accomplish the chore, runners had to ascend nearly 11,000-feet to reach frozen terrain.

Somewhere along the way, they initiated an interim measure, packing collected snow and ice into mountain caverns tunnels that provided natural cold storage. The frozen sensation spread throughout Italy and beyond, incorporating regional flavors and influences along the way. Fast forward a few millennia to the United States in the early 1900s. That's when a surge in the number of Italians immigrating to Philadelphia firmly established their version of flavored ice in the City of Brotherly Love and the rest, as they say, is history. Staking out a future in a new country involves myriad challenges, chief among them being figuring out how to earn a living. Enterprising Italians settling in Philadelphia noticed an opportunity in the frozen dessert realm and began peddling granita, their back-home variety of what is now known throughout Philadelphia as water ice.

Although it's sometimes compared to Italian ice, Philadelphia's water ice is a far cry from the mass-produced flavored ice in a cup marketed as a novelty by bell-ringing ice cream trucks in neighborhoods across the United States. First of all, it's made just three ingredients: water, sugar, and the flavor. Second, it's flavored with real fruit juice, chocolate, or whatever your heart desires. When it's done right, water ice is cold, smoother than hard-packed Italian ice, and can even include small bits of fruit in it if you chose a fruit flavor. Finally, flavors are incorporated into the ice while it's blending instead of being poured over shaved ice, and then the water ice is put into big tubs the workers scoop the treat out of, akin to how hard ice cream is served.

It's not entirely clear when the term water ice emerged as the go-to name for the frosty Philadelphia specialty, but we do know the correct pronunciation, at least as far as locals are concerned, is always enunciated with a Philadelphia accent. It's kind of like asking for a soda in Chicago: It's pop. Or ordering a milkshake in New England and expecting it to contain ice cream: That's a frappe. The word water is one of the most distinctly identifiable words in the Philadelphia dialect, it's pronounced more like wooder, though don't try to imitate the accent yourself, as that's pretty offensive.

Speaking of vendors, one of the oldest water ice emporiums in Philadelphia is still going strong. Established as a pushcart operation in 1932 by Filippo (Pop) Italiano, Pop's Homemade Water Ice is still a family-owned-and-operated enterprise. A few years after making his pushcart debut, Italiano transitioned to brick-and-mortar storefront when he noticed that instead of hoping they'd cross paths with him during the day, his loyal fans were gathering at the garage where he stored his pushcart. Almost 100 years later, Italiano's children and grandchildren are still serving up homemade water ice at the same location.

Other iconic Philadelphia water ice vendors include John's Water Ice, (established in 1945 and still family-owned), Morrone's Water Ice (established in 1925), Tranzilli's Real Italian Water Ice (established in 1969), The Original Philadelphia Water Ice (pictured above), and Famous Italian Ices (established in 1957). And keep an eye out for street vendors: They're out there serving up the frozen delight on the spot. You can also find water ice throughout the whole Philadelphia regional area, all the way down to the Jersey Shore. Water ice is just a classic Philly staple you need to try if you're in the area.